Surviving Desires

Surviving Desires by Henrietta Lidchi delves into the iconic form of Native American jewellery from the Southwestern United States, celebrated for its classic union of white metal and blue turquoise. This strikingly illustrated publication examines the jewellery's compelling history, which showcases both the persistence of tradition and the vitality of Native American communities alongside the ever-evolving nature of their contemporary artistic practices.

As a traditional adornment, Native American jewellery can be understood through its complex histories of making and the development of locally significant styles and materials. By situating jewellery within the cultural economy of the American Southwest, the book explores how Southwestern jewellery is a decorative form in constant transition. It reflects on the rich tradition subjected to desires fostered and regulated over time by government agencies, individual entrepreneurs, traders, curators, and Native American communities.

The publication presents various perspectives on Southwest Native American jewellery, exploring its identity as craft, material culture, commodity, and adornment. Considering the impact of tourism, it discusses the phenomenon of fakes, the desire to codify tradition and traditional styles, and how these perceptions affect stylistic development and value. By examining markets, markers, and works, the book highlights the complexity and reinvention that are inherent to Native jewellery as a commercial craft.

The book also investigates British activities concerning collecting, highlighting fieldwork and exchanges between British and American institutions. It traces the network of individuals, makers, and institutions that facilitated the emergence of UK collections from the 1890s to the 1990s. This includes an account of efforts that led to the development of the British Museum's contemporary collection.

Drawing heavily on the author's archival and fieldwork research, conducted since 1997, the book incorporates interviews with Native American jewellers, traders, dealers, and curators. Illustrated with objects from the British Museum's collection and supplemented by a wide range of historical and contemporary sources, Surviving Desires explores the symbolic, economic, and communal value of Southwestern jewellery today.