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Surf Is Where You Find It
The Wisdom of Waves, Any Time, Anywhere, Any Way
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Surf Is Where You Find It
$5499
Unit price
/
Unavailable
Book Hero Magic created this recommendation. While it's new and still learning, it may not be perfect - your feedback is welcome! IS THIS YOUR NEXT READ?
Book Hero Magic formatted this description to make it easier to read. While it's new and
still learning, it may not be perfect - your
feedback is welcome!
Description
The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward."
Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time, brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water.
From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has travelled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most.
Originally published in 2008, Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos.
Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary, The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez, about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today — surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way.
Includes forewords by Rob Machado and The Surfer's Journal founder Steve Pezman.
Book Details
INFORMATION
ISBN: 9781938340949
Publisher: Patagonia Books
Format: Paperback / softback
Date Published: 30 June 2022
Country: United States
Imprint: Patagonia Books
Edition: 3rd New edition
Illustration: Illustrations
Contributors:
- Foreword by Rob Machado
- Foreword by Steve Pezman
Audience: General / adult
DIMENSIONS
Width: 165.0mm
Height: 241.0mm
Weight: 250g
Pages: 416
Collections
About the Author
Gerry Lopez made his reputation at Pipeline, then went on to a lifelong career in surfing, snowboarding, and stand-up-paddle. He co-founded Lightning Bolt Maui surfboards, was instrumental in developing the high-performance shortboard, and has appeared in many films. He lives in Bend, OR.
Rob Machado is an Australian-born American professional surfer from Cardiff-by-the-Sea, a community in Encinitas, CA.
Steve Pezman is the founder of The Surfer's Journal and has been the editor since 1992. He lives in San Clemente, CA.
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