Richard Schweid

Nashville is a city of sublime contrasts, an intellectual hub built on a devotion to God, country music, and the Devil's pleasures. Refined and raucous, it has long represented both culture and downright fun, capable of embracing pre-Civil War mansions and manners, as well as honky-tonk bars, trailer parks, and dirt farmers. Nouvelle cuisine co-exists with barbeque and cornbread. The...