Riding the Iron Rooster

Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux is an enthralling travel narrative that captures the essence of adventure, cultural discovery, and the realities of traversing vast landscapes. Paul Theroux, ever the intrepid traveller, sets out from Victoria Station on a rainy April day, believing that a journey by train through Europe, across the USSR, and through Mongolia to the Chinese border will be a soothing, almost leisurely voyage. He imagines days filled with quiet reading, meticulous note-taking, regular and satisfying meals, and serene gazes out of countless train windows.

However, the journey quickly becomes anything but predictable. From the moment Theroux steps onto the first train, he is thrust into an array of peculiar and often challenging experiences. Over the course of a year, he rides nearly every train in China, encountering both the beauty and the brutality of the Middle Kingdom. His encounters are varied, from bureaucratic nightmares and unexpected delays to moments of genuine human connection and tender insights into everyday life in China.

The story is sprinkled with Theroux’s trademark wit and keen observational skills, offering an honest and sometimes acerbic view of his travels. His prose is rich with vivid descriptions and insightful commentary that transport the reader alongside him on his epic rail journey. You feel the rumble of the train beneath you, smell the distinct odours of each station, and see the ever-changing landscape through his discerning eyes.

Theroux's reflections are often philosophical, contemplating the nature of travel, the passage of time, and the intricacies of the human condition. He meets a diverse cast of characters along the way, each adding their own colour to the tapestry of his journey. From fellow passengers and train attendants to the locals he encounters in small villages and bustling cities, every interaction adds depth to his narrative.

As Time magazine aptly puts it, "Wry, humourful and occasionally querulous... as Theroux makes excruciatingly clear, travelling alone in the Middle Kingdom is not for the faint of heart or stomach." Indeed, Riding the Iron Rooster is not just a travelogue but a profound commentary on the rigours and rewards of solo travel through one of the world's most enigmatic countries. For those who crave an adventure filled with unpredictability and revelations, this book is an unmissable read.