The Crofter And The Laird

In 1969, acclaimed journalist and author John McPhee embarked on an extraordinary journey with his family, relocating from New Jersey to the windswept island of Colonsay, located twenty-five miles off the western coast of Scotland. This tiny island, comprising just seventeen square miles, is the ancestral home of McPhee's forefathers. They rented a crofthouse, and, with his children enrolled at the local school, they were soon welcomed into the close-knit community of just 138 inhabitants.

With his uniquely observant eye and trademark perceptiveness, McPhee offers readers a comprehensive and vivid portrait of this remote and mystical land in The Crofter and the Laird. He brings to life the island’s rugged landscapes and the elements that shape the lives of its residents. Braving fierce gales on the outer shoals of the Ardskenish Peninsula, he provides a visceral sense of the island's natural challenges. In the island's sole pub, he listens to the crofters share their grievances about the laird over drams of whisky and captures the essence of their day-to-day struggles and joys.

McPhee also delves into the island's rich cultural history, meeting perhaps the last of the Great Highland bagpipers, and blending his observations with the area's folklore and traditions. His writing intertwines anthropology and travelogue, presenting a perfect mirror of daily life in the Scottish Highlands. Through a mix of historical context and personal anecdotes, he conveys a deep sympathy for the residents' situations and heritage.

The Crofter and the Laird is a sensitive and insightful account of a unique way of life that has endured for centuries. With a narrative that is as honest, humorous, and frank as the islanders themselves, McPhee captures the spirit of a people and a place that time seems to have forgotten. This book is not just a travel narrative but a heartfelt homage to the resilience and enduring legacy of the crofters of Colonsay.