The Age of Kali

William Dalrymple's The Age of Kali is an evocative collection of essays vividly recounting the multifaceted cultural, political, and social landscapes of India during the twilight years of the 20th century. Through his engaging and often startling narratives, Dalrymple offers readers an intimate glimpse into the contrasting worlds that coexist within the subcontinent.

With a keen eye for detail and a passion for storytelling, Dalrymple registers the unique essence of India by introducing a cast of memorable characters and an array of surprising incidents. He encounters 15-year-old guerrilla girls, dowager Maharanis, and witnesses flashy Bombay parties juxtaposed with violent village feuds. His journey encompasses the bizarre and the extraordinary, from a group of vegetarian terrorists determined to demolish India's first Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet to a palace where port and cigars are delivered to guests via a miniature silver steam train.

During his explorations, Dalrymple meets significant figures such as cricketer-turned-politician Imran Khan, film producer Ismail Merchant, former Prime Minister of Pakistan Benazir Bhutto, and the flamboyant Indian pop star Baba Sehgal. Each interaction provides a profound insight into their lives and the complex tapestry of contemporary South Asia.

The Age of Kali is not just an anthology of whimsical tales; it also delves into the darker aspects of India. Dalrymple bears witness to the terrifying nightly ritual dedicated to the goddess Parashakti, who demands offerings at her bloodthirsty shrine. He chronicles the turmoil of the civil unrest in Kashmir, the caste-driven massacres in Bihar, and the gripping tension over dinner with a drug baron on the North-West Frontier.

The author's journey is peppered with remarkable oddities, such as the terrorist apes in Jaipur, subdued only when their bananas were laced with opium, and the mystical shrine where it is believed that the deity Lord Krishna engages nightly in celestial dalliance with his 16,108 wives and 64,732 milkmaids.

Dalrymple's prose in The Age of Kali is both haunting and enlightening, shedding light on the resilience and the myriad contradictions of India. His observations are marked by a sense of curiosity, compassion, and a deep understanding of the region's history and contemporary challenges. This book is an essential read for anyone seeking to comprehend the complexities of Indian society through the eyes of a masterful storyteller.