Sovietistan

SHORTLISTED FOR EDWARD STANFORD/LONELY PLANET DEBUT TRAVEL WRITER OF THE YEAR 2020

An unforgettable journey through the former Soviet Republics, by a prizewinning author of international reportage

In Sovietistan, Erika Fatland takes readers on a captivating journey through five of the former Soviet Republics—Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan—countries that gained independence following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. Fatland presents a rare and vivid portrayal of these nations, exploring how they have evolved in the decades since.

Through her keen observations and meticulous reporting, Fatland uncovers the unique traditions, cultures, and histories of each country. In Kyrgyzstan, she encounters the harrowing practice of bride snatching, a tradition that still affects the lives of many women. In Kazakhstan, she visits the barren wasteland of the Polygon, a former nuclear testing site, and meets the people who live in its shadow. On the shores of the dried-up Aral Sea, she meets Chinese shrimp gatherers, witnessing firsthand the environmental devastation caused by Soviet-era policies.

Fatland's travels also take her to the tightly controlled state of Turkmenistan, where she moves incognito due to restrictions on journalists. She meets human rights activists in Kazakhstan, survivors of the 2010 Osh massacre in Kyrgyzstan, and even German Mennonites who settled on the Kyrgyzstani plains over two centuries ago. Throughout her journey, she observes the clash between ancient customs and modern industry, such as gas production, and the tensions between ethnic Russians and nationalist movements.

The book offers a penetrating look at how life in these countries—once remote outposts of the Soviet Union—adheres to a different rhythm of time and change. Against a backdrop of the opulent treasures of Samarkand and the starkness of Soviet-era architecture, Fatland moves with a genuine openness towards the people and landscapes she encounters, crafting a travelogue that is both engaging and profoundly insightful.

Translated from the Norwegian by Kari Dickson, Sovietistan is an extraordinary travel memoir that sheds light on a region often overlooked, making it an essential read for anyone interested in understanding the complexities and resilience of Central Asia.