{"title":"Series: Dress Cultures","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDress Cultures\u003c\/em\u003e explores the intricate relationship between attire and identity, inviting readers to reflect on the cultural, social, and psychological dimensions of clothing. This series offers a thought-provoking journey into how dress shapes perceptions and communicates values across different times and societies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBlending perspectives from philosophy, history, and contemporary culture, the collection provides insightful narratives that challenge conventional views on fashion. Whether approached through academic inquiry or personal stories, these works deepen appreciation for the power of dress in human experience.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"jews-in-suits-by-jonathan-c-kaplan-wajselbaum-9781350244214","title":"Jews in Suits","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShortlisted for the Leslie and Sophie Caplan Award for Jewish Non-Fiction\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSurviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the \u003ci\u003efin-de-siècle\u003c\/i\u003e and interwar periods – both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists – all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eJews in Suits\u003c\/i\u003e uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, ‘ego-documents’, photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of ‘the Jew’.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, and oppositional dress—typologies which are often considered separate from one another—\u003ci\u003eJews in Suits\u003c\/i\u003e proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47424427524332,"sku":"9781350244214","price":65.99,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/9781350244214.jpg?v=1774768494"},{"product_id":"thinking-through-fashion-9781350376519","title":"Thinking Through Fashion","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA vital update to the definitive guide to fashion and cultural theory, featuring four new chapters and essential revisions throughout in light of key developments in fashion and fashion studies.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcross 19 major thinkers from the 19th to the 21st century, the second edition of this comprehensive collection introduces readers to the process of thinking through rich cultural fields such as fashion with the help of social and cultural theory, and thinking through social and cultural theory with the help of fashion. Each chapter guides you through the work of a major thinker and considers their historical context, the role of fashion within their theory, how their theoretical frameworks apply to contemporary fashion studies, and the strengths and limitations of their approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFeaturing new chapters on key theorists Edward Said, bell hooks, Frantz Fanon and W.E.B. Du Bois, this new edition prepares readers to question and diversify the field of fashion. A revised introduction resituates theories in relation to each other and reflects on changing approaches to fashion studies, while revisions to existing chapters equip readers with the most up-to-date critical perspectives and developments in fashion and fashion theory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47428349722860,"sku":"9781350376519","price":49.99,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/9781350376519.jpg?v=1774496975"},{"product_id":"fashion-before-plus-size-by-lauren-downing-peters-9781350399372","title":"Fashion Before Plus-Size","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2024\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women’s apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry’s few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated history–one that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as “overweight.” While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated larger women to fashion’s peripheries. By 1915, however, fashion forecasters predicted that so-called “stoutwear” was well positioned to become one of the most lucrative subsectors of the burgeoning ready-to-wear trade. In the years that followed, stoutwear manufacturers set out to create more space for the fat woman in fashion but, in doing so, revealed an ancillary motivation: that of how to design fat out of existence altogether.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eFashion Before Plus-Size\u003c\/em\u003e considers what came \"before\" plus-size fashion while also shedding new light on the ways that the fashion industry not only perpetuates but \u003cem\u003eproduces\u003c\/em\u003e weight bias. By situating stoutwear at the confluence of mass manufacturing, beauty ideals, standardised sizing, health discourse, and consumer culture, this book exposes the flawed foundations upon which the contemporary plus-size fashion industry has been built.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47460827463916,"sku":"9781350399372","price":54.99,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/9781350399372-fashion-before-plus-size.jpg?v=1774953013"},{"product_id":"experimental-fashion-by-professor-francesca-granata-9781350248007","title":"Experimental Fashion","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShortlisted for the \u003cb\u003eMillia Davenport Publication Award\u003c\/b\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eExperimental Fashion\u003c\/i\u003e traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the 21st century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese innovative people, the book argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47462973735148,"sku":"9781350248007","price":49.99,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/9781350248007-experimental-fashion.jpg?v=1775026067"},{"product_id":"fashion-in-late-ottoman-istanbul-by-nancy-micklewright-9781350454842","title":"Fashion in Late Ottoman Istanbul","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThis dynamic exploration of two key modes of visual culture - fashion and photography - in 19th-century Istanbul contributes to an expanding body of research on fashion and the dressed body outside the Euro-American context.\u003c\/em\u003e Based on meticulous analysis of visual, written and material objects, it focuses on women's lived experience during a time of dramatic change in the Ottoman Empire.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOver the 19th century, the women of Istanbul gradually transformed their appearance, adopting European dress and new modes of self-fashioning, including photographs. The book reconstructs a complex fashion history, and the dramatic changes that took place in women’s lives in this period. Given the diverse population of Istanbul in terms of ethnicity, class, race and religion, it attends to the differing clothing habits of the women of the city. The book focuses particularly on elite women as fashion tastemakers and on the dress of enslaved and working women.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAppealing to scholars across a range of fields, including fashion history, Ottoman studies, women’s and gender history, visual culture and photography history, \u003cem\u003eFashion in Late Ottoman Istanbul\u003c\/em\u003e provides a fascinating insight into women's histories, writing and dress practices in a rapidly changing Istanbul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin Aotearoa New Zealand","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47495748026604,"sku":"9781350454842","price":54.99,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/9781350454842-fashion-in-late-ottoman-istanbul.jpg?v=1775795136"},{"product_id":"fashion-in-late-ottoman-istanbul-by-nancy-micklewright-9781350454859","title":"Fashion in Late Ottoman Istanbul","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThis dynamic exploration of two key modes of visual culture - fashion and photography - in 19th-century Istanbul contributes to an expanding body of research on fashion and the dressed body outside the Euro-American context. Based on meticulous analysis of visual, written and material objects, it focuses on women's lived experience during a time of dramatic change in the Ottoman Empire.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOver the 19th century, the women of Istanbul gradually transformed their appearance, adopting European dress and new modes of self-fashioning, including photographs. The book reconstructs a complex fashion history and the dramatic changes that took place in women’s lives during this period. Given the diverse population of Istanbul in terms of ethnicity, class, race, and religion, it attends to the differing clothing habits of the women of the city. The book focuses particularly on elite women as fashion tastemakers and on the dress of enslaved and working women.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAppealing to scholars across a range of fields, including fashion history, Ottoman studies, women’s and gender history, visual culture, and photography history, \u003cem\u003eFashion in Late Ottoman Istanbul\u003c\/em\u003e provides a fascinating insight into women's histories, writing, and dress practices in a rapidly changing Istanbul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin Aotearoa New Zealand","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47495755956460,"sku":"9781350454859","price":165.0,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/3a00dab22684d4afecd0dab7b4d05316.jpg?v=1776125000"},{"product_id":"jews-in-suits-by-jonathan-c-kaplan-wajselbaum-9781350244207","title":"Jews in Suits","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eShortlisted for the Leslie and Sophie Caplan Award for Jewish Non-Fiction\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSurviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the \u003ci\u003efin-de-siècle\u003c\/i\u003e and interwar periods – both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists – all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eJews in Suits\u003c\/i\u003e uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, ‘ego-documents’, photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of ‘the Jew’.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47596706889964,"sku":"9781350244207","price":187.0,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/8473aad002c787e3a285939d6c8f4a34.jpg?v=1777939420"},{"product_id":"thinking-through-fashion-9781350125209","title":"Thinking Through Fashion","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"book-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLearning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers' ideas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThinking Through Fashion\u003c\/em\u003e is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Allen \u0026 Unwin","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47600759701740,"sku":"9781350125209","price":38.99,"currency_code":"NZD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0705\/7784\/8556\/files\/b8d9830d0b18f7d8fcd9b218dc0a4b23.jpg?v=1778019639"}],"url":"https:\/\/bookhero.co.nz\/collections\/series-dress-cultures.oembed","provider":"Book Hero","version":"1.0","type":"link"}